Bahia- possibly
more quintessentially Brazilian (albeit with an
African strain that is undeniable to the culture and
social history of Brazil) than even Rio itself with
its sun, carefree beach attitudes, practices of
candomble- a melding of African religions and
Catholicism, capoeira and various dance forms that
seem almost indigenous to the island.
The twin practices
of candomble and capoeira probably hints at
the evolution of Salvador de Bahia, a city with a
dark history of slavery- where the quaint-sounding
district of Pelourinho is simply just
Portuguese for 'whipping post', in reference to the
slaves, where the origins of capoeira, though hotly
debated, is traced back to the slaves who had been
its earliest practitioners. Candomble has
similar origins, what with its melding of African
religions, with its multiple deities having picked
up Catholic influences in largely Catholic Brazil.
That both capoeira and candomble have
suffered repression, initially from the slavemasters,
then the government and the Roman Catholic Church
respectively, only adds to its subversive qualities
(and interest factor) amongst visitors to the
island.
Contemporary times
have continued to see the ongoing subversion of what
were once signposts of repression and cruelty to
slaves. Pelourinhos, no longer the 'whipping
post' for slaves, now function as the geographical
heart for the Black Movement in Bahia. A new form of
music fusing tribal beats with reggae melodies
against a backdrop of social activism have spawned
the genre termed Axe`
(Yoruba for 'energy').
The best
activities on this city are essentially Brazilian in
nature- to do as the locals do, head for the water
park at Arraial D'ajuda(where commercial Axē
band Olodum has
performed), spending time on the beach,
or alternatively taking up classes in capoeira, the
various dance forms of zouki, lambada or forro or go
horseriding along the beach (at lowtide) or through
the countryside.