India’s Holy
City, the city of lights, Varanasi borders the
Ganges River (which, in Hindu mythology, was
attributed to have bubbled forth from the sacred
tresses of Lord Shiva, the deity believed to have
founded the city) on its eastern side. One of the
seven most holy pilgrimage destinations of the Hindu
religion, Varanasi is—according to various
scriptures such as the Rig Veda and the
Ramayana—approximately anywhere from 3000 to 5000
years old. It is, by this count, one of the oldest
continuously-inhabited places in the world. It has
been said that the Lord Buddha himself chose
Varanasi as a sanctified place and had his first
gathering there, at which he spoke of the basic
principles of spiritual truth and enlightenment.
As befitting its status as a holy city, Varanasi has
an almost overwhelming offering of beautifully
sculpted temples, ranging from white to gold to red,
towering magnificently-tall or perched subtly-small
at the corner of crossroads of the streets. The more
famous ones are the Kashi Vishwanath Temple
(dedicated to Lord Shiva, with a gold-plated spire,
and housing the jnana vapi, the “well of wisdom”),
the Durga temple (built by a Bengali queen,
ochre-red, and dedicated to the goddess Durga,
aspect of Devi the Supreme Goddess), and the Sankat
Mochan Hanuman Temple (with “Sankat Mochan” meaning
the Deliverer of Troubles, in this case referring to
the deity Lord Hanuman). As a further indication of
holiness, or spiritual cleanliness, Varanasi has
more than a hundred religiously symbolic ghats
(series of steps leading down to the Ganges River),
either for purifying through bathing, or cremation.
Along with such significant religious affiliations,
Varanasi also holds a culturally unique place in
India. Literature and art have a strong base in
Varanasi, with many renowned authors writing their
finest and most critically-acclaimed works here,
such as Tulsidas and his “Ramayana”, and Sushruta
and his Sanskrit text of surgery. Festivals and
open-air concerts showcasing local and traditional
music or folk and cultural dances are also common,
held at venues like the Sankat Mochan Hanuman
Temple. There is an almost-palpable air of
celebration in Varanasi, no doubt a culmination of
the positive spirituality and the fantastic
celebration of Hinduism here.
For souvenirs from Varanasi, one can always pop over
to one of the many small shops lined up
quaintly-crookedly on the streets and purchase
marvelous silk saris, or bags of hand-packed betel
leaves. These are very local industries, specific to
Varanasi and the expertise of its workers and
craftspeople; it has been said before that the
finest silks in all of India, and of those exported,
come from Varanasi.
Based at the Taj Ganges, we will arrange to have you
visit Sarnath, where Buddha first preached his
message and the Bhanaras Ghats, which attracts a
stream of pilgrims. Also note the cremation ghats,
witnessing the living traditions of one of the
world's oldest religions.
The backdrop for Deepa Mehta's concluding elemental
trilogy, Water, set in pre-independence 1930s
India, tourism in Varanasi in the preceding context
can potentially present a moral dilemma.
Jasmine Yuen-Carrucan writes:
There is a building on the Ganges that was
left in a will to shelter widows, but a disobedient
landlord has converted the top two floors into a
restaurant and guest house, while the lower floor,
which is completely rundown, houses widows. Tourists
sleep in their luxury surroundings ignorant of the
fact that below them women are starving. Even the
travelers’ bible, the Lonely Planet Guide to India,
has remained oblivious to this and continues to
promote "Ganapathi" guest house on Meer ghat.
That tourist accommodation is so literally built
upon human suffering is hard to ignore, yet
arguments of cultural relativity persists and
neither is it anybody's place to dictate a country's
customs.